28 February 2010

Geuze the First: Moriau Oude Geuze




I stopped in to the world-renowned beer store «Beer Planet» (www.beerplanet.eu) to try my luck at the selection. Geuzehound I am, I immediately went to the soursection. I saw some familiar faces (Cantillon, Hanssen's, St. Louis) but one caught my eye: Moriau Oude Geuze, made by Boon. I'd never seen the bottle, so had to have it for 4€ (375ml bottle). Oh, and its drink-by date is 03/03/2029, which is awesome.

Yes! A good bienvenue to Brussels. I loved it. Sour funk in the nose, some lemon, citrus, farmyard barn. The taste was well balanced, a little savory, a little oaky/woody, definitely had the horsey funkiness of the bacteria brettanomyces (more about our friend B. bruxellensis in a future post) but it was not overwhelming. Citrus-sour, refreshing, crisp, clean, fantastic.

(I know many of these descriptive words aren't so helpful to someone who a) hasn't smelled geuze before or b) been on a farm, and they may come off as obnoxious, but hopefully soon you can try a geuze and see what I'm talking about. Or you'll spit it out, and yell at me for making you taste it.)

A good thing about geuzes is that they're relatively low in alcohol, between 5% - 6,5%. This particular one weighed in on the upper end, but I could still finish the 375ml (my first week in Brussels was lonely, don't laugh) and not burn my dinner.

Welcome to Brussels. Welkom in Brussel. Bienvenue à Bruxelles.

Merci.

«Tintin»

The First Post: So, Geuze?

Welcome to So It Geuze!

I should probably start by talking a bit about geuze, seeing as I devoted the stupid pun in the title to it. It's the beer I'm currently most obsessed with, and one that is not exactly popular or well-known. If you already know about geuze, tell me what I get wrong, or just don't read SIG till I tell you about my first forays into the world of Brussels geuzes (Moriau, Boon, Drei Fonteinen, Hanssen's in my first week...heh).

Don't worry if you don't like geuze, though, I'll talk about other things here too. Fret not. And if this all seems a bit ... dense, beer-nerdly, stop-talking-and-let-me-drink-g.d. ... come to Brussels and join me for a beer. I promise I don't have to be so verbose in real life.

Geuze is, at its most basic, a blend. A blend of lambics. Of what?

A lambic is, at its most basic, sourdough beer. Well, not dough, but kind of the same. You make beer (101: Take sugar out of grains like wheat and barley, add wonderful things like hops, boil to concentrate and sanitize, add yeast, let sit, yeast eats sugar and "farts" carbonation and "pees" alcohol [excuse the imagery, but I kind of like it], then beer. QED), but for lambic, the yeast is allowed to settle from the air, instead of being added by the brewer. Like pain au levain (sourdough), the funky yeasts from the surrounding area are the lucky ones who get to enjoy your proto-beer.

Like sourdough, lambic is funky. People sometimes use words like «horse-blanket», «mustard», «vinegar», «band-aid», «goats», and «sweat». Not exactly appetizing sounding? Well. You have some drinking to do!

Lambics are often blended - the young ones are a bit too funky, and need older, mellower ones to relax them. Thus, the Glorious Geuze. Classic geuzes are a blend of 1-, 2-, and 3- year lambics, though any combination really flies, I believe. You never really know - trust the geuze blender (a hard job - imagine trying to tame those flavors!)

Lambics can also be mellowed with fruit: when blended with fresh cherries, you get kriek. Raspberries give framboise, peaches pêche. Some of these are awesome, mouth-puckering experiences that make you see stars like out of a Tintin comic strip. Others are saccharine-sweet and shameful stand-ins for the real thing. Beware the latter, unless you like Smirnoff Ice or caramel macchiati. I won't judge if you buy one, I promise. I just won't have a sip.

A cool thing about lambic, and therefore geuze, is that it really can only come from the Pajottenland / Senne valley area of Belgium, including Brussels and the area just to the southwest. It is only here that the wild yeasts are right. Sure, you can come to Brussels, take a little wood from Cantillon brewery, then leave it in your basement and see how your homebrew turns out, but it won't really be a lambic. Good luck with that experiment, though - I'm curious to hear how it goes. So, aren't you lucky that your boy reporter just happens to be smack dab in the middle of the Senne Valley?

This is enough for now, probably too much. If you can, find yourself a geuze, or something blended, and take a seat, 'cause you'll need it, and pop the cork (they come in champagne bottles, how elegant!) If you don't like it at first, stop drinking. No need to force it. Try again in a couple months - maybe it'll stay on your mind and you'll have to come back to it. They're wily, they're fun, they're refreshing, they're beguiling. Just try.

Till next time ... Moriau Oude Geuze.

«Tintin»

So It Geuze (Soit Geuze!)

Hello et Bonjour.

Welcome and Bienvenue to So It Geuze / Soit Geuze!

Here you will find the writings of a young explorer in the great land of Belgium, terre sainte (holy land) for beer lovers everywhere.

The name So It Geuze is a silly pun on the Vonnegutian «So it goes», the postmortum mantra of Slaughterhouse-Five. The name Soit Geuze! is French for «All right Geuze!» or something like that. I like puns, so I apologize up front about that. And I like practicing my French, so that too, but I'll try to translate as I go.

Oh, and geuze? Geuze is an amazing, wonderful style of beer only made in Belgium around Brussels. I'll get into it more later, but for now, just hold tight.

Soit! Like Tintin, boy journalist, I will tour Belgium and the world to find the best stories to tell. Unlike Tintin, I am old enough to drink, so these stories will center around beer and its marvels.

Please, be my Milou (Snowy) and join me.

«Tintin»