11 April 2010

Dutch beer: Really?

(obligatory photo of Amsterdam: canal, bicycle, swans)

So, I am never one to condemn things en masse. I usually have good perspective, and understand that there are always exceptions to rules. I don't like asparagus, but it's not so bad with some Dijon mustard. I am not a fan of licorice, but it's a pretty amazing flavor in absinthe. I don't love spiders, but I appreciate that they have a place in breweries.

Dutch beer, though? Really, the Dutch?

I recently traveled to Amsterdam for the first time. I hadn't heard much about Dutch beer, but I knew that I shouldn't judge it by Heineken and Grolsch, my only two experiences with the country's beers. I found out about 't Arendsnest, "The Eagle's Nest," a Dutch-centric beer bar with many tap options and many more bottles. The atmosphere is lovely, the tables brown and the walls and the walls are covered with Dutch beer signs.

('t Arendsnest)

I tried, along with my co-adventurer, many of the tap selections and a few bottles. Ranging from light blondes («Texels Skuumkoppe» - I don't know what I should have expected from a beer called Skuumkoppe - the brewery translates it as "Foam Top" but Google translate seems more accurate by calling it "Parasitic Coupling") to American-style pale ales (SNAB Pale Ale - from "Dutch Alternative Brewery," which prides itself on making the first APA in Europe by displaying a roadsign of Arizona Route 66 on its website) to licorice tripels (Sint Servattumus Zoethouter Tripel - definitely more fun to say than to drink), to stouts as black as the canals at night (Emelisse Espresso Stout - at 10% it was one of the hottest, most alcoholic, most potent beers I've ever had - strong and coffee, but boy it tasted stronger than the De Garre 11.5%!)

One beer, and potentially one brewery, was intriguing - SSS, by De Molen (The Mill, in Dutch - named after the 1697 windmill that houses the brewery) It was a Tripel Stout, with very sturdy chocolate and coffee notes. At 9.99% it was hefty, but not hot. I only had a sample, as it was the end of a long night, but if I were to go back, I'd stick to De Molen. I think there's something going on there.

In the end, I tried 12 of the best-respected microbreweries in The Netherlands. I was impressed by only one of the beers, and it was still a bit unbalanced. I'm certainly not the most discerning of beer judges, but I'd like to think I have a bit of experience under my belt. So, here's what I say: if you're coming to northern Europe for the beer, stick to Belgium. Leave the Dutch to do other things well. I think I'll stick to the jenever:

(mmm, cranberry and raspberry...)

«Stay tuned for another episode of So It Geuze about Dutch beer - this time about a brewery run by psychiatric patients!)

1 comment:

  1. The co-adventurer agrees with this assessment, that licorice one just tasted like Natty Lite with a hint of vanilla. Same with the honey beer. Also, she would like photo credit for the last two pictures, please.

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